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Unboxing

The regulator is sold as a focused kit, not a complete harness. The philosophy is simple: include the non-standard items that most installers would struggle to source, and leave out the generic, boat-specific items you're better off buying to the exact length and rating you need.

This page lists exactly what arrives in the box, what else you'll need to buy for a complete installation, and links to products we recommend.

What's in the box

Item Qty Notes
Regulator 1 PCB in its wood enclosure
316 stainless screws 7 For mounting the enclosure
Plastic washers 3
Heat-shrink tube 4 For labelling the four Ethernet cables (see below)
Bulkhead drilling template 1 Paper template for the mounting holes
Digital temperature sensors 3 One each in M4, M5, and M8 lug sizes — pick the one that fits your alternator and battery studs
Alternator current sensor 1 Hall clamp, 500 A range
P/N alternator configuration jumper 1 Sets the board for a P-type or N-type alternator — see Installation → Alternator Type

What else you'll need

None of these are included, because the right choice depends on your boat. All are inexpensive and easy to source.

Power, ground, and field wires — use your existing ones

The Power, Ground, and Field connections are universal screw-terminal style. In most retrofits you can reuse the wires already on the boat — there's nothing proprietary to match.

NMEA 2000 cable

Any generic NMEA 2000 drop cable is fine. Buy whatever length reaches your backbone.

Ethernet cables (Cat5 or Cat6)

The four signal runs on the regulator use ordinary Ethernet cable. You'll cut two cables in half to make four runs — which is why the box includes four heat-shrink labels.

Buy by length, not by run

A cable can be cut at any point — it does not have to be the middle. So a single 10 ft cable can become a 7 ft run (say, to a battery) and a 3 ft run (say, to a control switch). Add up the lengths your boat actually needs and buy cables that cut down into those lengths.

What to buy: Cat5 or Cat6, 24 AWG or thicker (lower gauge number). Thicker conductors are mainly for ease of handling — these runs are not current-limited for anything the regulator does. Shielded (STP) is recommended.

The four Ethernet runs go from the regulator to:

# Run Also carries (optional)
1 Battery bank —
2 Alternator —
3 Ignition wire High/Low switch, Force-Float switch, NMEA 0183 (UART), Victron VE.Direct
4 Nav / Control / Networking Buzzer, On/Off switch

Battery shunt

A 500 A shunt is recommended.

Buzzer (optional)

The alarm buzzer is not included. Any buzzer drawing under 500 mA on a 5 V signal works — the regulator drives it directly with DC, so you want a self-driving (internal-drive) buzzer that does not need AC excitation.

  • Recommended: Raltron RBE-4.000-3215-NS1 — 5 VDC rated (3–20 VDC range), draws only 10 mA, internally driven (no AC excitation needed), 95 dB. Connects to the Nav / Control / Networking run (#4 above).

Cross-references