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Unboxing

The philosophy is: include the non-standard items that most installers will not already have on-hand, and leave out the generic and boat-specific items you're better off providing on your own.

This page lists exactly what arrives in the box, what else you'll need to buy for a complete installation, and links to recommended products.

What's in the box

Click any photo to enlarge.

Item Qty Photo Notes
Regulator 1 Regulator in its wood enclosure, top viewRegulator enclosure showing the connector edge PCB in its wood enclosure with harness plug and (optional) felt tape wall bumpers
316 stainless screws 7 316 stainless mounting screws 3 for mounting the PCB to the Base (already done), and 4 for mounting the Wall Dock to the vessel
Plastic washers 3 Plastic washers for the PCB mounting screws For the PCB mounting screws, already installed
Heat-shrink tube 4 Four heat-shrink tubes labelled 1(left), 2, 3, 4(right) For labelling the four Ethernet cables (1left, 2, 3, 4right), helps to prevent mixing
Bulkhead drilling template 1 Paper bulkhead drilling template Paper template for the mounting holes
Digital temperature sensors 3 Bagged ring-lug digital temperature sensors One each in M4, M5, and M8 lug sizes — pick the one that best fits your alternator and keep rest as spares
Alternator current sensor 1 Hall-effect clamp current sensor with mating plug Hall clamp, 300 A range, with harness plug
P/N alternator configuration jumper 1 Phoenix Contact two-position jumper Sets the board for a P-type or N-type alternator — see Alternator Type

What else you'll need

Power, ground, and field wires — use your existing, or 14 gauge marine-grade stranded cable

The Power, Ground, and Field connector is universal screw-terminal style. In most retrofits you can reuse the wires already on the boat.

Fuses (input power and field)

You supply your own fusing. Add two inline fuses:

Circuit Fuse rating
Input power (the regulator's main supply) 15 A
Field (the wire driving the alternator's field) 10 A

Any standard automotive blade-fuse holder works — pick one up at a local auto-parts or marine-supply store, or order online.

NMEA 2000 cable

Any generic NMEA 2000 drop cable is fine. Buy whatever length reaches your backbone.

Ethernet cables (Cat5 or Cat6)

You'll cut two cables in half to make four runs

Buy by length, not by run

A cable can be cut at any point — it does not have to be the middle. So a single 10 ft cable can become a 7 ft run (say, to a battery) and a 3 ft run (say, to a control switch). Add up the lengths your boat actually needs and buy cables that cut down into those lengths.

What to buy: Cat5 or Cat6, 24 AWG or thicker (lower gauge number). Thicker conductors are mainly for ease of handling — these runs are not current-limited for anything the regulator does. Shielded (STP) is optional.

The four Ethernet runs go from the regulator to:

# Run Also carries (optional)
1left Alternator area —
2 Battery bank area —
3 Ignition switch/ ECU area High/Low switch, Force-Float switch, NMEA 0183 (UART), Victron VE.Direct
4right Nav / Control / Networking area Buzzer, more controls

Battery shunt

Whatever your boat has is probably fine.

Buzzer (optional)

The alarm buzzer is not included. Any buzzer drawing under 500 mA on a 5 V signal works — the regulator drives it directly with DC, so you want a self-driving (internal-drive) buzzer that does not need AC excitation.

  • Recommended: Raltron RBE-4.000-3215-NS1 — 5 VDC rated (3–20 VDC range), draws only 10 mA, internally driven (no AC excitation needed), 95 dB.

Cross-references