Data Cables & Pinout¶

Mount the sensors first¶

Do not cut and terminate these cables until the sensors are mounted. Their positions decide where each run ends and how long it has to be: Current Sensor and Temperature Sensors.

Regulator rear connections with the four Ethernet ports highlighted

The four ethernet cables connect to XREG-010 via two dual jack ethernet ports, RJ5 (left) and RJ3 (right).

Each jack receives a Cat6 cable.

Make four cables by cutting two patch cables in half, so that each has an ethernet connector on one end and 8 bare wires on the other (for connection to the boat, sensors, etc.)

Patch cable cut in half: RJ45 plug on one end, eight bare conductors on the other

Picking the cable¶

Use a straight-through, stranded Cat6 patch cable (the recommended cables).

Wire colors: T568B, T568A, and how to confirm yours (a signal on the wrong pin can destroy the board)
Straight-through vs crossover
Shielded cable: ground one end only
Dielectric grease on assembly

Wire Termination on the Boat Side¶

Sherco makes a series of 26–24 AWG crimp connectors which work well.

Splicing a Cat6 conductor into boat wiring

Cable 1, Alternator Area

RJ5, left port · pins 1–8 (from left to right)

Pin	Wire (T568B)	Signal	GPIO	Purpose	Connects to	Connector / termination
1	Orange/White	3.3V	—	3.3 V power for the digital temperature sensor(s)	The red lead of every DS18B20 on the bus	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the sensor lead. No step-up, no pigtail.
2	Orange	GND	—	Ground for the digital temperature sensor(s)	The black lead of every DS18B20 on the bus	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the sensor lead. No step-up, no pigtail.
3	Green/White	TEMP-DQ	—	Digital temperature sensor(s) signal: one DS18B20 data line shared by every probe	The white lead of every DS18B20 on the bus	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the sensor lead. No step-up, no pigtail.
4	Blue	TACHIN	—	Alternator stator tap for RPM. Please ground this wire if unused (left open it picks up noise)	The alternator's stator terminal, usually marked W, STA, Stator or AC	Fuse this wire at the end that taps. 1 A ATO blade fuse (Sherco ATO1A on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse ANR80-UL-1A on 36 and 48 V) in an 18 AWG in-line holder: Sherco IHWO18 on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse LPR-02B-18R on 36 and 48 V. Join the regulator-side holder lead to the Cat6 conductor with one HSWSD-10: its small end takes the 24 AWG, its large end the 18 AWG. At the stator terminal, crimp HSRR10M-10 multi-stud ring (#10, #8, and #6 in one terminal), or HSRFN-10 for a 0.250" male blade, straight onto the holder’s 18 AWG lead. No fold-back. If you are not using RPM, ground the conductor as the Purpose column says and fit no fuse.
5	Blue/White	5V	—	5 V power for the alternator current sensor	Terminal 1 (+5 V) on the current sensor's 4-pin screw plug	KF2EDGK-5.08-4P-AA: strip the Cat6 conductor and clamp the bare copper under the screw. No splice, no ferrule, and do not tin the wire.
6	Green	GND (AIN3)	—	The current sensor's power ground. Ground only because AIN3 is factory-shorted to ground by R28; removing R28 turns this pin into an analog input.	Terminal 2 (power ground) on the current sensor's 4-pin screw plug	KF2EDGK-5.08-4P-AA: strip the Cat6 conductor and clamp the bare copper under the screw. No splice, no ferrule, and do not tin the wire.
7	Brown/White	AIN1	—	Alternator current sensor signal	Terminal 3 (Vout) on the current sensor's 4-pin screw plug	KF2EDGK-5.08-4P-AA: strip the Cat6 conductor and clamp the bare copper under the screw. No splice, no ferrule, and do not tin the wire.
8	Brown	GND	—	Ground for the alternator current sensor signal	Terminal 4 (signal ground) on the current sensor's 4-pin screw plug	KF2EDGK-5.08-4P-AA: strip the Cat6 conductor and clamp the bare copper under the screw. No splice, no ferrule, and do not tin the wire.

The KF2EDGK-5.08-4P-AA screw plug is not waterproof: see Current Sensor for mounting, grease and chafe protection. Pins 1, 2, and 3 are one shared bus: up to three DS18B20 probes wire in parallel on them. See Temperature Sensor for the alternator, battery, and extra probes. Pin 6 is ground only because R28 on the board shorts AIN3 to ground as shipped. Remove R28 to use AIN3 as an analog input and pin 6 is no longer a ground: the sensor's power and signal returns then share pin 8, two wires in one terminal position.

Cable 2, Battery Area

RJ5, right port · pins 9–16 (from left to right)

Pin	Wire (T568B)	Signal	GPIO	Purpose	Connects to	Connector / termination
9	Orange/White	IN+ INA228	—	Battery shunt, + side. Keep pins 9 and 10 twisted together all the way to the shunt. Required for the battery voltage correction when the shunt is in the negative lead.	The shunt's + sense screw	HSRR10M-10 multi-stud ring (#10, #8, and #6 in one terminal) crimped straight onto the Cat6 conductor. Fold the stripped end back on itself so the 22–18 barrel grips 24 AWG. Use HSWR6-10 (#6) or HSWR4-10 (#4) for an exact-gauge 26–24 ring on a small screw. No pigtail, one crimp.
10	Orange	IN− INA228	—	Battery shunt, − side. Keep pins 9 and 10 twisted together all the way to the shunt. Required for the battery voltage correction when the shunt is in the negative lead.	The shunt's − sense screw	HSRR10M-10 multi-stud ring (#10, #8, and #6 in one terminal) crimped straight onto the Cat6 conductor. Fold the stripped end back on itself so the 22–18 barrel grips 24 AWG. Use HSWR6-10 (#6) or HSWR4-10 (#4) for an exact-gauge 26–24 ring on a small screw. No pigtail, one crimp.
11	Green/White	AIN0 / VBUS	—	Battery + connection, which is the regulator's battery voltage measurement	The battery positive post, or a bus bar bolted to it with no fuse, switch, or shunt between the two	Fuse this wire at the end that taps. 1 A ATO blade fuse (Sherco ATO1A on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse ANR80-UL-1A on 36 and 48 V) in an 18 AWG in-line holder: Sherco IHWO18 on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse LPR-02B-18R on 36 and 48 V. Join the regulator-side holder lead to the Cat6 conductor with one HSWSD-10: its small end takes the 24 AWG, its large end the 18 AWG. Ring-terminate the stud-side holder lead with HSRR14-10 (1/4", M6) or HSRR516-10 (5/16", M8), crimped straight onto 18 AWG with no fold-back.
12	Blue	GND (AIN3)	—	Ground as shipped: same net as Cable 1 pin 6, factory-shorted to ground by R28. Becomes the spare analog input, and the thermistor's landing point, once R28 is removed.	A thermistor, if you have removed R28; otherwise, spare ground	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the thermistor lead. No step-up, no pigtail.
13	Blue/White	AIN2	—	Reference point only. Please do not connect anything to this wire	Nothing	Cap it. Crimp the wire into one end of an HSWBS-10 and heat it. The adhesive seals the empty end, and the gauge is an exact match. HL8-22-14 is the purpose-made closed-end cap if you would rather have one, though its smallest range is 22–14.
14	Green	5V	—	Spare 5 V power, not for the thermistor (use 3.3 V)	Normally unused	Cap it. Crimp the wire into one end of an HSWBS-10 and heat it. The adhesive seals the empty end, and the gauge is an exact match. HL8-22-14 is the purpose-made closed-end cap if you would rather have one, though its smallest range is 22–14.
15	Brown/White	UART RX1	7	Victron VE.Direct receive (RX) wire	The yellow TX conductor in the Victron VE.Direct cable	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the Victron conductor. No step-up, no pigtail.
16	Brown	BMSLogic	42	BMS on/off control signal. Accepts 5–28 V	The BMS charge-enable or control output	Fuse this wire at the end that taps. 1 A ATO blade fuse (Sherco ATO1A on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse ANR80-UL-1A on 36 and 48 V) in an 18 AWG in-line holder: Sherco IHWO18 on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse LPR-02B-18R on 36 and 48 V. Join the regulator-side holder lead to the Cat6 conductor with one HSWSD-10: its small end takes the 24 AWG, its large end the 18 AWG. The holder’s other lead is 18 AWG tinned marine wire and carries on to the source. Add HSRSD-10 at that end only if you are standardizing the boat on 16 AWG.

Pin 15 is the same UART as Cable 3 pin 1, wired in parallel on the board: use one or the other, never both. Pin 12 is ground only because R28 shorts AIN3 to ground as shipped; removing R28 turns it into the analog input a thermistor lands on, and turns Cable 1 pin 6 back into a signal wire (see Analog Inputs → Channel 3).

Cable 3, Network Electronics (Victron / BMS / NMEA)

RJ3, left port · pins 1–8 (from left to right)

Pin	Wire (T568B)	Signal	GPIO	Purpose	Connects to	Connector / termination
1	Orange/White	UART RX1	7	Victron VE.Direct receive (RX) wire, alternate connection point	The yellow TX conductor in the Victron VE.Direct cable	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the Victron conductor. No step-up, no pigtail.
2	Orange	5V	—	Convenient 5 V source for the spare input, HIGH/LOW, and FORCEFLOAT (pins 3, 5, 7)	The common side of the panel switches for pins 3, 5 and 7	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire in one splice; its large end takes 22–18 AWG. Add HSRSD-10 after it only if you are standardizing the boat on 16 AWG.
3	Green/White	OPT GPIO1	8	Spare isolated input. Apply any voltage 5–28 V; function not yet defined	A maintained panel switch fed from pin 2 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
4	Blue	UART RX2	6	NMEA0183 receive (RX) wire	The TX conductor from the NMEA 0183 source device	HSWBS-10 26–24 AWG adhesive heat-shrink butt splice, crimped straight onto the source device's signal conductor. No step-up, no pigtail.
5	Blue/White	HIGH/LOW	39	Apply any voltage 5–28 V for the faster charging mode. Acts only while Physical Panel Override is on	A maintained panel switch fed from pin 2 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
6	Green	IGNITION	1	Connect to the engine ignition. Wakes WiFi and all functions	A switched ignition or run source on the engine harness	Fuse this wire at the end that taps. 1 A ATO blade fuse (Sherco ATO1A on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse ANR80-UL-1A on 36 and 48 V) in an 18 AWG in-line holder: Sherco IHWO18 on 12 and 24 V, OptiFuse LPR-02B-18R on 36 and 48 V. Join the regulator-side holder lead to the Cat6 conductor with one HSWSD-10: its small end takes the 24 AWG, its large end the 18 AWG. The holder’s other lead is 18 AWG tinned marine wire and carries on to the source. Add HSRSD-10 at that end only if you are standardizing the boat on 16 AWG.
7	Brown/White	FORCEFLOAT	40	Apply any voltage 5–28 V for maintain-voltage mode (zero net battery current). Acts only while Physical Panel Override is on	A maintained panel switch fed from pin 2 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
8	Brown	GPIO0	0	Programming mode only: short to GND before power-up, then flash over USB (usually unnecessary)	Nothing in a normal installation	Cap it. Crimp the wire into one end of an HSWBS-10 and heat it. The adhesive seals the empty end, and the gauge is an exact match. HL8-22-14 is the purpose-made closed-end cap if you would rather have one, though its smallest range is 22–14.

Pins 3, 5 and 7 are active-high: the switch feeds them 5 V from pin 2. Which switch to buy, how to wire it and how to seal it are on Control Switches.

Cable 4, Control Switches

RJ3, right port · pins 9–16 (from left to right) · all inputs active-low

Pin	Wire (T568B)	Signal	GPIO	Purpose	Connects to	Connector / termination
9	Orange/White	FactoryReset	41	Ground this wire to run the factory firmware. User settings and WiFi setup are retained	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
10	Orange	WakeFromSleep	5	Ground this wire to wake WiFi with the engine off, for example to check battery state of charge at anchor	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
11	Green/White	WifiReset	45	Ground this wire to reset WiFi passwords and serve the WiFi config page	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
12	Blue	AP/ClientMode	46	Ground this wire to make the regulator its own hotspot (AP mode) instead of using the ship's WiFi	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
13	Blue/White	RESET	—	Ground this wire to hold the regulator in reset; flip the switch on and back off to reboot it	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
14	Green	ON/OFF	—	Ground this wire to shut off the alternator field. This is pure hardware, not software-dependent in any way	A maintained panel switch back to pin 16 (see Control Switches)	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire, then HSBFN-10 for the switch's 0.250" blade. Add HSRSD-10 between them only if you are standardizing on 16 AWG.
15	Brown/White	Buzzer +	21	5 V output for an external buzzer or alarm, current-limited to ~250 mA	The buzzer's + lead; the buzzer's − lead returns to pin 16	HSWSD-10 step-down butt splice crimped straight onto the buzzer's lead: one crimp, and it takes any buzzer lead from 22 to 18 AWG.
16	Brown	GND	—	Shared ground return for all the switches and the buzzer above (pins 9–15)	The common ground point for every Cable 4 switch, and the buzzer −	HSWSD-10 crimped straight onto 18 AWG tinned marine wire in one splice; its large end takes 22–18 AWG. Add HSRSD-10 after it only if you are standardizing the boat on 16 AWG.

Every input on this cable is active-low: a switch triggers it by connecting it to pin 16, not by feeding it a voltage. Run pin 16 to a small common ground point and take every switch's return from there. Which switch to buy for each function, and how to seal it, are on Control Switches.

Two standards apply on a boat and they are complementary. ABYC E-11 governs the vessel's AC and DC electrical system: the circuits the installer sizes and protects. NMEA 0400 is the marine electronics installation standard, and it is the one with sections on data interfacing and Ethernet networking. Data and signal cabling for a piece of electronic equipment has always lived on the NMEA 0400 side, which is why a boat full of NMEA 2000 drops, VE.Direct leads and Cat6 to an MFD is not somehow non-compliant. Both are voluntary standards.

Where E-11 does speak to wire size, it sets 16 AWG as the general minimum and permits 18 AWG only in named cases, among them conductors inside a sheath that do not run more than 30 inches outside it, and circuits under 60 V carrying less than 3 amps in communication, electronic navigation and electronic equipment. These cables are 24 AWG, under that floor. Nothing done at the end of the wire changes it: stepping up to 18 AWG at a panel switch, and folding the conductor into a 22–18 barrel, are both about getting a mechanically sound crimp. The circuit is 24 AWG for its whole length either way.

Four conductors do tap a source of power outside the regulator: battery, stator, ignition, and the BMS output. Those carry a 1 A in-line fuse at the tap, called out in their rows above. E-11's ampacity tables stop at 18 AWG, so the value is sized against NEC Table 725.144, which rates a 24 AWG conductor in a single 4-pair cable at 2.0 A.

What makes these cables sit between the two standards is that you cut a patch cable and terminate the far end yourself, onto the boat's own hardware, so it is not purely a factory assembly. Every signal here carries milliamps and stays inside the jacket for its whole run.

Use stranded Cat6, not solid-core in-wall cable. E-11 requires stranded copper, because solid conductors work-harden and break under vibration. Patch cable is stranded by construction, and the cable recommended on Unboxing is 24 AWG stranded pure copper.